Day 8
4-28-10
Seligman to Williams
When I woke up this morning “You were on my mind, Yes, you were on my mind….”. Do you remember that song? I miss you all.
I had breakfast, several cups of coffee and prepared myself for the morning’s ride. Bad news – winds up to 60 miles an hour, 13 mile of climbing to an elevation of 7100 feet. Good news – the sky is blue. A few clouds in the distance, the air is clean, and the wind will hopefully be at my back. It’s a late start – 8:30 am, but it took a while for me to get my flight plans, I mean riding plans approved.
Seligman is a small town but rather unique in that its location is just a mile or two from Highway 40. Founded in 1895 after the completion of the railroad camp known as Prescott Junction, which then officially became Seligman and a very important railroad stop along the line. In the late 1920s Route 66 and the railroad were the main source of its economic security. The 1970s brought Santa Fe Railroad and the new Interstate I-40 which bypassed Seligman ending their economic boom. Seligman is the beginning of one of the longest stretches of what is left of Route 66, which stretches to the town of Topock without a break. Because of this the towns come together to put on various yearly events ranging from motorcycle runs, vintage car shows/cruises and benefit festivities along the route to benefit communities. As a matter of fact, on the 2nd of May the Route 66 Association is putting on their yearly “Fun Run” car show. This brings me to the Delgadillo Brothers.
While riding out of Seligman I passed Angelo Delgadillo’s Barber Shop. He and his two brothers Joe, who had a small grocery store, and Juan, the oldest brother, who operated the Snow Cap Drive In are icons in the community. Angelo is 90 years old, and to this day still cuts hair in his barber shop/gift shop and it is said he rides his bike to get around town. Angelo is referred to in many written books on Route 66, and in one he is called the Mayor of Seligman. Angelo is highly thought of by the community for his role along with his brother as founders of the Historic Route 66 and his role for which he was given credit as a living historian of the communities on Route 66 in the movie “Cars.” For those of you who have not seen the movie, it reflects the dissemination of towns which consisted of people’s livelihoods due to the implementation of I-40 and the Santa Fe Railroad. Out front of the barber shop is Nader, the tow truck from the movie. It’s not the original, but is the same make and model. The movie “Cars” actually got its idea from the small towns on this stretch of Route 66. In the movie Peach Springs was referred to as Radiator Springs.
Juan established the Snow Cap Drive Inn in 1953. He was well known as the jokester of the three. He liked to fool his patrons by serving fake hamburgers before getting the real thing or pretending to not know what he was doing when making change for the bill. He also along with his brother is one of the co-founders of Route 66. The Snow Cap Inn is still run by family, and is one of the wackiest burger joints around. Juan died on 6-2-04 at the age of 88. You can’t miss the drive in because his old white jalopy with a Christmas tree in the back seat still sits out front.
Joe along with his wife Polly owned and operated a gas station and grocery store next door to the barber shop. The store changed hands a couple of times, becoming a Thai restaurant and is now J&R Café. Joe and Polly are still alive enjoying their days in Seligman.
Outside of town I begin my ride on the Crookton Road, which is part of the original Route 66 and road for 8 miles. It’s a good thing the road is not used much, especially while I was on it on this windy day. I was swerving from one side to the other like a drunken sailor, trying to maintain my balance due the wind’s smacking the right side of me and the bike. I was able to stop periodically for a panoramic view of this Arizona countryside, from flat, spread out land, rolling hills and just plain mountains with very little to no human inhabitants. A dirt road, trails left by cattle and the railroad are still running parallel to the road I am riding. I get to I-40, the end of Route 66 and cautiously enter the mainstream of travel. What a contrast. A sign to the right of me says Bicycles Use Shoulder Only. This time I thought, I would love to be riding on someone’s shoulder. To say the least I was wind whipped at this point, but thankful that it was still to my back. No matter how close you ride that shoulder, there are those truckers and drivers alike who give no thought of safety or consideration, in this case for me. But I must say many truckers took the wide berth, and in passing honked or waved their hands of approval. I in turn had no problem in letting go of my handlebars to return the wave in appreciation.
I arrive into Ash Fork roughly at 1:00 pm, an unbelievable 4-1/2 hours to ride 25 miles. A Welcome sign to Ash Fork identifying itself as the “Capital of Flagstone”, and soon after the city sign with an elevation of 5144 feet with a founding date of Ash Fork 1882. I stopped for lunch at the Ranch House Café, a local diner. As I entered the establishment my fluorescent green caused a silent reaction with a dozen heads looking up at this foreigner. (By the way, if you haven’t heard the new Arizona State Law gives Arizona State Law Enforcement the power to demand identification from anyone, at any time, if there is any question as to someone’s legal presence in the state.) I sat myself down across from an elderly couple. The gentleman inquired as to the direction I was headed, and after informing him “East to Williams” he assured me that although the wind was blowing, once I ascend into the hills in that direction the wind would be at my back. I had considered spending the night there at Ash Fork before this unexpected piece of good news. I have 22 miles to Williams, and 15 of it is climbing. It turns out the gentleman was a trucker running goods, vegetables and fruits across the States. We talked about my trip mentioning the much appreciation for the truckers who took the first lane when passing me. He said, “I was one of them who passed you riding up the grade and know what you mean by the unstable wind when a truck passes.” He said he experienced it for the first time when he rented a recreational vehicle and couldn’t believe the effects we truckers impose when passing. He said he almost lost control of his RV, and since then pays great respect to those he passes on the highway. I thanked him very much for his consideration and words of encouragement. I took his news to heart and decided to tackle my adversary – the wind. Not the hill, the wind.
I leave at 1:00 pm. The terrain changes drastically from prairie to Ponderosa pine forest. The scent of the trees is prominent and reminds me of the many summers I spent in Wrightwood. I take it slow and my thoughts wander as to how I can better take advantage of the 40 mph winds at my back. I think of a sail and put my loose wind jacket on. It makes a difference and allows me to rest as the burst of winds push me along. I arrive into Williams at 5:00 pm after a grueling 21 miles reaching an elevation of 6950 feet. I was surprised that the elevation had not hindered my breathing capacity and strength. Although the sky was blue and pretty much clear of clouds, it got much colder and the wind speed had increased. I didn’t feel while riding into Williams, but when I came to a stop the chill factor was at 40 degrees. I take shelter into the first motel I come to with a Jacuzzi. When I entered the lounge the desk attendants look at me in puzzlement, and with a friendly smile ask, “How can we help you?” I tell them of my journey and both at the same time say, “Are you crazy?” I laugh and respond, “Absolutely” and ask, “Is the Jacuzzi hot?” They say yes, and I check in. Yes, I did sit in the Jacuzzi for 20 minutes to thaw out what bones I have left, and massage the muscles that will get me through another day. TV news reports the closure of I-40 due to high winds and possible rain with snow on Friday. I laugh when the newscaster says, could even be as soon as tomorrow. Another great day of life and more to come.
Tomorrow, Williams to Flagstaff.
Love ya all,
Thawed Old Man Meeting Mother Nature
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