Day 19
6-18-10
Amarillo to Groom, Texas 37miles.
Hello everyone, I hope you have enjoyed my last journal as much as I did by living it. It was truly a lifetime experience. We left Dixon yesterday a little late, but that was due on my part for not being in a hurry to leave this little place of heaven. I decided to take Rudy up on his offer to drive me through the rest of New Mexico. Concerns of long rides with no services were an issue, and I had just had my last massage with Ms. Romero, who in her efforts had succeeded for the most part in resetting some very tight tendons and muscles. The numbness and pain in my left arm were diminishing, and after so much dedicated work I did not want to undo it. She wanted me to stay for a couple more sessions seeing the improvement of my shoulder’s mobility and reduced swelling. She could only say that she understood my need to continue with my venture, and recommended that I take it easy at least for a day before continuing. Ms. Romero, thank you very much for all of your professional knowledge and the wonderful conversations we had of life, the people of New Mexico and, most of all, your sincerity in unifying the balance in my body. I will be back to complete the portion of the ride from Santa Fe to Amarillo when the weather is cooler and a much needed massage after the completion of this venture. A very good reason for me to return to New Mexico. I left my tent, sleeping bag, some camping gear and clothing behind that I determined I would not need after deciding less weight would relieve the strain I was placing on the left arm and shoulder. I have to say that there was a feeling of insecurity with the absence of the tent and sleeping bag, but the bike ride, even as short as it was, was very pleasant and without pain. The front of the bike was no longer a struggle and the balance was in line with every stroke of the pedal. I am happy. Now onto some history.
AMARILLO
In April of 1887, J. T. Berry established the site for the town along the Fort Worth and Denver City Railroad, which was being constructed across the Panhandle. In 1887 the town won the county seat and it soon became a fast growing cattle marketing center. The original name of the settlement was Oneida, but later the named was changed to Amarillo, which means yellow in Spanish. This is probably because of the yellow wildflowers growing nearby in spring and summer, and also the yellow soil along the shores of the Amarillo Lake and Amarillo Creek. It also bears the nickname of the “Yellow Rose of Texas.”
In 1988, Henry B. Sanborn, also known as the “Father of Amarillo” and his partner Joseph F. Glidden began buying land to the east so as to move to Amarillo, both are given credit for many of the businesses having moved into this area. By the late 1890s Amarillo became one of the busiest cattle shipping points with the population growing along with it. The city became the center for elevator, milling and feed manufacturing after an increase in wheat and grain production during the early 1900s. The discovery of gas and oil in 1918 brought oil and gas companies to the Amarillo area. In 1927 the US Government bought the Cliffside Gas Field with its high helium content and the Federal Bureau of Mines began operating the Amarillo Helium Plant, reportedly the largest in the world. The Fort Worth, Denver City Railroad, the Atchison, Topeka, Santa Fe Railway , Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad established services to and from Amarillo. They all maintained freight and passenger depots and repair facilities during the 20th century and were major employers for the community.
Amarillo was hit by the Dust Bowl and went into an economic depression. During the period of nine years from 1929 to 1938, the rainfall was significantly lower than it ever had been. History tells that the Panhandle suffered over 192 dust storms over a three year period, the worst one being on March 3, 1933. To many in Amarillo that day appeared to be the end of the world. Amarillo’s recovery began with Routes 60, 87, 287 and 66 all of which merged in the town succeeding in making it a major tourist attraction.
The day started out by my getting up late due to the loss of one hour that occurred when we entered Texas yesterday. I left at seven thirty this morning and arrived into Groom around one o’clock. The weather was warm and the wind was blowing southeast. Everything between Amarillo and Groom is crop land growing grains of wheat, millet, corn and there are also some cotton fields. The wheat is being harvested now with corn stalks standing around four and a half feet height and millet just pushing through the ground. Cotton will be next in line for planting. I left with the intention of having breakfast in Conway, fifteen miles east of Amarillo. Much to my surprise, Conway only had one great big grain silo, a very old closed gas station, and a few residential homes of those not willing to leave. So I ate my power bars, drank my fluids and road my bike while admiring and thinking about this land without mountains. It is vast with no obstruction of any kind and the road I was riding on was the original old Route 66, also used as the frontage road for all the farm equipment being driven from crop to crop. Fortunately, I did not have to compete for space as there was very little use on this day.
CONWAY
Conway is a town along the Choctaw Route of the Chicago, Rock Island and the Gulf Railway, which was actually established before the railroad came through. In 1892 the town itself was named after a county commissioner by the name of H.B. Conway. Also, in 1892 the Lone Star School was created for the children of the ranchers, and it was said to be the first in the Texas Panhandle region.
The first post office was established in 1896 with Wade Allison as the first postmaster, remaining in business for 18 years before it was taken out of service in 1914. The early businesses were a general store operated by E.B. Allison and a gin mill run by R.L. Price. The only thing left of the trading post by 1936 was a little church located about half a mile from the village, and schoolhouse that was attached to it.
In 1967 the Crutchfield family opened a roadside shop and gas station in Conway. Conway was at the height of its population and by 1969 it had 175 residents. However, by 1970 it had decreased to a population of 50, had two grain elevators, four gas stations, three cafes and a general store. The post office was closed in 1976. In 2002 a Loves Truck Stop/Country Store was created on the interstate.
In 2002 one of the local attractions was the Bug Ranch. Crutchfield, the creator and owner, was inspired by the Cadillac Ranch roadside attraction and he bought five VW Beetles. He then created his own artistic version of the Cadillac Ranch, which is west of Amarillo. Unfortunately, it did not generate enough business and it closed in 2003. The Bug Ranch has been mentioned in the Route 66 Pulse, and to this day visitors use paint and markers to decorate the Beetles.
Moving along minding my own business I notice a small brown patch move right in line of my front bike tire. I avoid thankfully, stopped, dismounted and walked back. To my surprise it was a horn toad lizard. I have not seen one of these in their own environment since I was a kid catching them with my brother Pete and keeping them as pets in cardboard boxes. This one on all four stood up and said “Ha, I almost got you”. It was a very good memory. I thanked Mr. Horned Toad, took a couple pictures and stood there till he turned and disappeared into the tall grass.
Next I arrived into the city limits of Groom expecting the same outcome as Conway. I stopped to take a picture of the welcome sign, which had a city limit sign next to it that read ‘Population 546.’ So, as you can guess, I felt somewhat deflated and very hungry. Once again, the stroke of luck fell upon me with a convenience store, which actually looked closed until I placed my face up against the window pane and saw some movement. My heart rate decreased in its frantic state of palpitations to a steady rate of beat, which cleared my head enough to open the door of the store and found life. She, the clerk and only one in the store, informed me that there was, in fact, a restaurant two blocks east of the store. I thanked her very much and left knowing I was going to live. I mean eat. Which brings me to where I am -- writing this journal. I rode the two blocks and found a comfortable little restaurant called “The Grill.” It is located on 407 E. Front St., Groom, Texas, 79039. Fortunately, it is the only one in this little town, and its menu is simple with everything freshly home made. I was greeted by a very happy young girl named Corey, age twelve. She seated me with a menu and very politely asked “What would you like to drink?” After answering ‘water and coffee’ she replied thank you, turned and before I could settle in my chair, returned with items in hand saying, “Your waiter will be with you in a moment.” The service was exceptionally good and everyone so very pleasant. The food was great and it was fresh. I recommend this restaurant as a must stop and to be sure to ask for Corey, the smiling young waitress. While having my lunch many of the local ranchers stopped in for theirs and conversation filled the room. They spoke of their lives, work ethics of this community of Groom, and how they fulfill their commitment to the country in growing and harvesting the grain crops that we use daily. It was also very nice to see the community residents gather to eat and share in conversation about daily activities. It was very obvious that everyone knew each other with simple “How do you do’s” or questions of family members whereabouts and health.
While writing this journal a young woman entered the restaurant area with her young three year old son, having just come out of the kitchen. The woman gave her son a directive, and took him by the arms and firmly placed him at the table. She stated to him, “If you don’t behave, we will have to leave.” Her son replied with a defiant “NO!” and immediately got up from the table and headed for the exit with his mother right behind. Sitting right in front of me was a couple waiting for their meal, and they asked for the owner to come to the table. The owner, Karen Brown, did so. The woman at the table proceeded to ask Mrs. Brown if she believed the incident that had just occurred between mother and son was child abuse. Mrs. Brown indicated that she did not see the incident and that the parties involved were family. As it turned out, the mother was Mrs. Brown’s daughter and the boy her grandson. At this, the woman and man got up, and asked, “How much do we owe?” The woman stated to Mrs. Brown that she intended to report the incident as child abuse. After the couple left, I called for Mrs. Brown to come over to the table so I could speak to her. I indicated to her that I did not witness anything that I believed to be reportable as child abuse, and that if needed I would be willing to write a statement to that effect. She thanked me very much, and then asked me what it was that I was doing. After explaining to her, she then called over the other workers and a great conversation ensued. The general consensus in the restaurant was that there was no child abuse that had occurred. Families here know each other by first name, and that includes all the youngsters. Their relationships are very personal and they demonstrate a caring for each other’s well being.
This small community is so unlike the larger community where the interpersonal communication seems to have been lost. I attribute this to the population growth and the abundance of handheld devices and technological advances, which were actually intended to better our lives. Lost in that process is the knowledge that is passed on from the elders to the younger generation from which the community benefits as a whole. In other words, responsibility for each other. This is a village. I left the restaurant in the same good spirits I entered with. I walked into the Grill Restaurant as a hungry outsider, was fed and, through the process of communication, left as one of the villagers.
After returning to the hotel, I noticed a convenience store and a Dairy Queen. The urge for ice cream overtook me, and I decided to head out of the motel to the DQ after showering. I no sooner closed my door behind me when it began to rain. At first it was a light rainfall, but this was immediately followed by heavier rain and then hail. The hail began as peewee-sized marbles and soon developed into the size of 50 cent pieces. This whole spectacle was topped off by lightening and lasted about 30 minutes. I watched in amazement, and was even able to take some pictures. It was comical to watch the cars weaving in and out of traffic in their attempts to dodge the pellets of hail. They scrambled to park under or next to buildings away from the wind that was driving the falling hail. I waited out the unexpected storm and made a mad dash during one of the short breaks to the DQ where I did get my ice cream -- a banana split!
While eating my banana split, I noticed a young group of teenagers sitting nearby. They appeared to be having a great deal of fun with each other, and looked as if they were high school age. It turned out several had recently graduated. I wondered why they were gathering here, and then thought it over and decided, what else is there to do in Groom? I asked them if they were aware of any services between Groom and Shamrock. They politely replied and gave me as much information as they could. One of the young men by the name of Justin asked, “Sir, can you tell me why you are riding your bike so far?” I, in return, replied, “Yep, just fulfilling a dream!” I then said to them, “Young’uns, listen here, and listen up good. After you graduate and go to college, each one of you needs to consider doing something like this or something that you have always wanted do.” I shared with them my retirement and dreams of one day riding across the USA and meeting all the different people in the states, people just like them. I again encouraged them to take time to follow their dreams before they started their lives. They looked at me in confusion and replied, “But we have to get jobs!” I then said, “You get a job and before you know it you will be old like me and wish you had done this while you were young. There is plenty of time to gain all the things you believe you need in order to be a success. Maybe, if you are fortunate enough, you will fulfill your dreams as I am doing now. There are many times I wish I had done these things when I was younger. Physically speaking it would have been much easier.” While I was leaving, each one of them politely said, “Thank you sir!” While walking away I was happy to have experienced the youth of Groom. I thought about the wonderful life they have today and the many conflicts they will face tomorrow. If what I experienced in the restaurant holds true, they will have many resources to assist them in making the right decisions for a good life and a continuation of a living community.
GROOM
The town was named for Colonel B.B. Groom in 1902, an Englishman who imported shorthorn and Angus cattle. Colonel Groom originally had a huge estate in Kentucky, but lost most of his fortune and, after becoming a widower, was hired to be the general manager for the Francklyn Land and Cattle Company in Groom. He was the first manager to hire well drillers to provide water for the ranchers’ cattle, but because of his enthusiasm in obtaining land for the Francklyn Company, this company went bankrupt also. After this, Groom and his son Harry became the managers for the Mortimer Land Company, and the leased land was known in the area for years as the “Groom Pasture.” Colonel Groom entertained guests at this well-kept ranch until the owner of the land, the White Deer Lands Company, refused to renew the lease. Harry left for El Paso where he became president of the American Livestock Association, and Colonel Groom went back to England where he died.
In 1902 the town was originally planned to be on the Chicago, Rock Island and Gulf Railway and a store and post office were established that year. By 1906, the town was thriving with a bank, hotel, lumberyard, school, barber and several stores. Groom suffered one fire in 1912 and another in 1915.
In Groom there is a 19-story cross that is next to I-40, Old Route 66, which can be seen from 20 miles away. At the base of the cross are life-sized statues of the Stations of the Cross. This cross was the inspiration for a similar one that was constructed in Effingham, Illinois, but that one is eight feet taller.
Also, in Groom there is a leaning water tower, which currently only serves as a tourist attraction. It was originally a functioning tower which was slated for demolition until a man by the name of Ralph Britten bought it and moved it to serve as a sign for his truck stop and for tourist information. Unfortunately, the truck stop is no longer open, but it can still be seen off the highway of Old Route 66. At Christmas time the town of Groom places a large colored star on the top which can be seen for miles. It’s a little weathered but still there.
Well there you have it, one more day of glorious life at least through my eyes it is.
Tomorrow Groom to Shamrock
Lv Ya all n Take care
Old man Feeling the country
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